Why I Refused To Become a Mentor with Everwise

I have been mentoring people for a long time. Hoping that I would find new people to mentor over the Internet, I have applied for mentorship at Everwise. However; after our initial meeting, I didn’t like their model and cancelled my application. Here is my final message to them.

I have evaluated our phone call, and I regret to say that I won’t be part of the Everwise ecosystem at this time.

Here is my feedback:

I have voluntarily mentored countless people so far, without charging them anything. Simply out of good will. That’s one way of mentoring. I also understand that mentoring can be a business. Involving compensation within the process can be fair enough in many cases.

However, your model is based on being an intermediary company charging the clients and paying the mentors nothing. Instead; you offer a social platform and mentoring experience.

If this would be a free service for all parties, I could join it as a mentor out of good will – I do mentoring all the time anyway. But when compensation is involved, I start evaluating the system as a business. And the non-monetary compensation you offer doesn’t appeal to me, frankly.

Best regards…

No Instant Defective Device Replacement at Apple Online Store Turkey


I ordered a new iPad from the Apple Online Store Turkey, which had a minor defect on its screen. Apple support said that I would have to wait 10 days for a replacement. Brick & mortar Apple stores do instant replacements in such cases; therefore, I don’t recommend anyone using the online store for substantial purchases.


Last week, one of my peers approached me and asked if I’d be willing to sell my (2012) iPad to her. I use my iPad in meetings and on the stage in case I need to read music while playing. Therefore; it has an important place in my daily life, but I don’t need too much computing power. Nevertheless; I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to upgrade my hardware. We shook hands, I passed the iPad to her and ordered a new one from the Apple Online Store Turkey. Needless to say, the delivery was very fast and I was playing around with my new Apple toy in no time.

However; I noticed a black fleck on the screen. It’s not a dead pixel because it’s visible when the iPad is turned off as well. It’s either a tiny crack within the glass, or a little piece of dust between glasses. It doesn’t really affect my usage, but defects cause raised eyebrows when you are re-selling your device. And why not have a perfect device when you paid for it?

Being a long time Apple fan, I confidently contacted support to talk about my replacement options. The people I talked with were very polite and knowledgeable; however, the result was very disappointing. They said that the cargo company would contact me within 48 hours, pick the defective iPad up, carry it to some facility for inspection, and a new one would be sent to me within 7 days. That makes 10 days in total. Although I asked for different options, I was told that there isn’t one.

I could get an instant replacement if the purchase was made from a brick & mortar store.

I use an iPad extensively at work and on the stage, and sold my old iPad. So I don’t have 10 days to live without an iPad. If that was an iPhone, living 10 days without a phone would be impossible either – not everyone has a backup device. Therefore, I was forced to live with my defective device. I don’t know what else to do, and I’m very dissatisfied.

Bitter lesson learned: Never ever purchase a substantial Apple device from the online store unless you have a backup, because you don’t get instant replacements like the brick & mortar Apple stores.


The order was made at 2017-07-11, my order number was W430294017, and the incident number of the issue was 100236141732.

Possessional Minimalism

I am a strong advocate of minimalism in terms of possessions. When I moved to Germany, all I had was a backpack, a suitcase and a bass guitar. That was enough to start and sustain a new life. Today, I do my best to live on this philosophy, and the benefits are significant.

Last week, I discussed this subject with a colleague of mine; and decided to write about my kind of minimalism.


First of all, one has to recognize his/her needs. If you “need” something to survive, do your job, sustain your hobby, or simply feel good using it, that’s fine. However; chances are, a large percentage of your possessions are there simply because once you believed you need them. If that’s not the case today, they don’t have a place in your life.

Textile is a common category among most people. If you wear that shoe frequently, keep it. If another shoe didn’t see the sunlight in 6 months, it needs to leave your life – assuming that it’s not a rare special occasion / weather oriented item. If you are wearing that shirt on every possible opportunity, keep it. If another shirt is collecting dust in the dark corner of your wardrobe, it needs to leave your life.

The same principle can be applied to other topics in your life; such as tech items, hobby gear, furniture, utility stuff, etc.


But why? Why not keep everything until the wardrobes crack and cabinets vomit?

First of all, possessions cost you. It costs you time, money and energy to possess an item. You need a bigger space to store them (which could mean a higher rent), more time to organize them, more energy to maintain them and more patience to endure the frustration while searching for that one item you need at that time.

Chances are, some might have given up organizing stuff a long time ago. They would simply live with vaguely organized piles of possessions, or the “etc-drawer” is the fullest drawer of the house.

Those are the tangible costs. However, there are intangible costs as well.

Every item you possess takes up a small toll on your psychological sense of freedom. The more items you possess, the more dependent and cluttered you’ll feel. In other words; to quote Fight Club, “Things you own, end up owning you”. You probably won’t notice that until you really give things away. I can’t describe the feeling of freedom and independency when I gave up 95% of my possessions when I was moving to Germany. No physical clutter can be worth more than this emotion. Maybe that’s what spiritual teachers mean when they praise poverty.

Another aspect is; having piles of unorganized items at home reinforces the belief that you are an unorganized person with a low level of conscientiousness. This belief might affect your behavior at work, social relations and many other areas in your life with a flavour of self fulfilling prophecies. With a little dose of selective perception, you might end up being a really messy person. Having an organized household with a minimum quantity of significant items works in your favor.

Self worth can also be affected. Imagine a shirt you purchased to wear outside. After a while, you don’t wear it outside any longer, but keep it to wear at home. Well; could this mean that you value your outlook towards total strangers more than your outlook towards yourself and the people you share your home with? Aren’t you worth of self-praise when you look at yourself in the mirror at your home? Wouldn’t it be nice you could pull off any shirt from your wardrobe, look at the mirror and be happy with it; whether you are at home or outside with peers?

Hygiene is another problem. It is really hard to keep a large quantity of items clean. Dust, mold, mites and germs love dark deserted nooks. The more items you possess, the more of those you might end up living with.

There is also the aspect of social responsibility. An item you don’t really love and use might be the favorite possession of another individual who can’t afford what you can. A nice-to-have item of yours might be cruicial for another person. As the saying goes; one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. Why not give it away and make others happy?

For those people of faith, giving possessions and alms to those in need is also praised a lot in the holy books. In some verses, it is stated that people only really give when they give the things they love. You might want to look up into that if interested; because giving away your trash might not be enough for spiritual advancement.


Obviously, donation is not the only way to part from an item in your life. If you want to get rid of an expensive technical possession, you can simply sell it online. It is not really a donation, but a fair way to reduce clutter. Whatever the method is; if I convinced you about possessional minimalism, it’s time I tell you how I do it.

I make a distinction of planned vs sustained donations.

Planned donation is the type of activity where I gather my possessions of a certain category (such as textile), pile them up, and sort out the items I’m willing the donate. This can be done once every season. The trick is to decide what to give and what to keep. Here are some questions I ask to decide.

If I would be moving abroad, would I take this with me? 
Yes: Keep. Maybe/No: Donate.

If I would be moving to another house, would I take this with me? 
Yes: Keep. Maybe/No: Donate.

Do I love and use this item as much as day one? 
Yes: Keep. Not sure/No: Donate.

Is there someone who would benefit much more than I do? 
Yes: Donate. Not sure/No: Keep.

As mentioned before; the exception of donation might be rare occasion items, such as a tuxedo or snow coat, which get used once a year but are essential.

Sustained donation is the type of activity where I monitor my possessions within the flow of life. For this to work, I create loops of items. For example, I tend to wear the lowest shirt from my pile of shirts, and the clean shirts go on top of the pile. If a shirt stays at the lowest level for a long time, it means that it doesn’t get used much, and it might be time to donate it.

Another sustained principle is the one-in-one-out approach. For example, I limit the quantity of shoes I possess. If I buy a new pair of shoes, I donate the least liked shoe in my wardrobe.

A very important part of sustained minimalism is prevention of possession. If you don’t buy something, you prevent clutter in the first place. For this to work, one needs to recognize the borderline between needs and desires. As stated before; if you “need” something to survive, do your job, sustain your hobby, or simply feel good using it, that’s fine. If you are buying it out of desire, boredom, in a whim or because of GAS (gear acquisition syndrome); you might be better off not buying it at all.

This is easier said than done, obviously. Marketing and media strategies keep pumping unrealistic images of superiorities to make you feel inferior and purchase stuff so you can catch up. You end up spending money to possess more hygiene items to make up for a lack of motivators, which doesn’t really work. I recommend reading my post Two Factor Theory: An Approach to Life Satisfaction for more details; one can gain a lot of freedom by understanding how this pattern works.

For every purchase, you should be asking: Is That Too Expensive?


Having a lot of possessions costs a lot and works against you. I hope that I have convinced some of you to reduce your pile of possessions. I can only talk about the freedom and independency that I feel; you need to experience it for yourself. Once you taste this emotion, I think that you wouldn’t want to go back.

How I Setup My Basses

I would like to share how I maintain and setup my beloved bass guitars.

Although this article focuses on the basses I possess, the same approach can be projected to any bass.

Topics in this post contain highly subjective preferences. Your might (and probably will) differ from mine, but the general principles will be useful.


Detailed spec options of my Fodera ESS5 can be found at http://www.fodera.com/emperor-standard-classic/ . My bass happens to have an alder body with black finish, maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. I have two Fodera/Duncan alnico humbuckers which can be switched to single coils.

Another bass I will cover in this post is my Lakland 55-02, which can be inspected at https://www.lakland.com/55-02.htm .

Generally speaking; ash + maple produce a brighter tone with a pronounced top end, typically preferred for slapping. However, slapping is not the only application – many non-slapping bassist prefer this combination as well. Alder + rosewood produce a warmer tone with pronounced low mids. In both cases, you can even out things to a certain degree using EQ. Maple reflects too much of the fret & finger noise for my taste, so I prefer alder + rosewood.

Ceramic humbuckers produce a modern tone typically preferred by metal / progressive / etc players, while alnico (“al”uminum + “ni”ckel + “co”pper) produce a vintage tone. I seem to prefer alnico.

Rest of my gear can be seen at Pinterest .

String Choice

I prefer to use medium gauge uncoated nickel roundwound strings.

Light gauges feel like rubber under my hands, and heavy gauges consume a lot of finger stamina. Medium gauges provide a happy balance.

Coated strings have a longer life span than uncoated strings. However, the ones I tried so far sounded dull to me. They also have limited grounding capabilities because the metal of the string can’t touch the skin. On certain situations, I hear sparky electric clicks through the amp when I move my hands up & down, which is obviously not desirable. Therefore, I prefer uncoated strings.

Steel strings are too bright for my taste, and they wear the frets much faster than some other materials. They also have a very strong magentic pull – the pickups of my Fodera seem to pull steel strings so much that the B string sounds off-pitch despite the perfect setup. I assume that cobalt strings would have an even greater magnetic pull. Therefore, I prefer nickel strings.

Flatwound strings provide have a very warm, deep tone with no finger noise. Roundwound strings provide clearer high mid & treble frequencies, which I happen to like a lot. That’s also suitable for the music styles I play. Therefore, I prefer roundwound strings over flatwounds.

On my 35″ Lakland, I got to lean towards XL strings because I prefer to string it through the body. With flatwounds, I would have to string them through the bridge though.

Some typical strings I reach out for are;


Setup & Maintenance

I change my strings whenever they sound to sound dull to an extent where it can’t be fixed with EQ (what is lost, can’t be put back). If the string change is not part of my periodic maintenance, I change one string at a time to keep the neck constant and apply the maintenance steps (below) after the point of string change. Otherwise, I remove all strings so I can run through the entire maintenance procedure.

Normally, I run a full maintenance once every 6 months, which is based on the following steps.

Wood Maintenance

First of all, I remove all of the strings.

I start with the body. I use an air duster to blow the dust off the cavities of the bass. Then, I clean the body of the guitar with a good guitar polish applied to a clean soft piece of cloth. Afterwards, I dry it off with another piece of cloth.

Next step is the neck maintenance (not fingerboard!). On the basses with finish or gloss necks, I simply clean the neck like I clean the body. If you have a neck without finish, you would need to apply gun stock wax to it as well; the same way you would apply lemon oil to a rosewood fingerboard (coming next).

Next step is fingerboard maintenance, which applies to rosewood only (Fodera). The deal is, rosewood has tiny little horizontal dents all over the fretboard. If the neck gets too dry, those dents tend to grow and turn into cracks. If things get further and the cracks grow as well, you might end up having a ruined neck. Therefore, you need to oil the rosewood fingerboard from time to time. I use lemon oil for that, which I apply to the entire fingerboard generously. Wood between each fret interspace should “drink” a fair amount of lemon oil with the help of a clean cloth. After the entire fretboard is oiled, I let the guitar rest and dry for a day or two. At the end of this period, I dry off any remaining oil from the fingerboard and frets using a clean soft cloth.

If you have a maple fingerboard (Lakland), the fingerboard can simply be cleaned with orange oil.

Jason from Fodera Guitars has a wonderful video on oiling the fingerboard; which you might want to watch if you have never done this before.

String Installation

Next step is to put on the strings. Not much explanation needed here; except keeping the neck in balance. I start with the A string (the middle string), and add an additional string to either side sequentially – which looks like A – E – D – B – G. Then, I tune the strings.

On my Lakland, I particularly start by changing the A string to see if the string is long enough to run through the body. On the headstock, A is the farthest peg; so if I’m good with A, I’m good with any other string.

Neck Relief

Next step is to setup the neck relief. I apply a capo to the first fret and press the first string at the 24th fret. Using a feeler, I measure the distance between the first string and the 8th fret. I have a light touch, therefore my ideal measure is 0.25 mm. In my opinion, this is as close as you can get without any buzz. If you have a harder touch, you might need to adjust the relief as needed.

Neck relief: 0.25 mm @ 8th fret when 1st and last frets are pressed

You need to re-tune your strings after each truss rod adjustment.

If you are not experienced with this setup, get help & training from a luthier or more experienced player on the first few times. Jason from Fodera Guitars has a wonderful video on the subject; which you might want to watch – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgmoRHr2cD8 .

String Height and Spacing

Next step is to adjust the string height via the bridge. Using a measurement tool, I measure the distance between the end of the string and the top of the last fret for each string. Due to my light touch, my ideal distance is 1.25 mm for A D G, 1.50 mm for E and 1.75 mm for B string. The reason why E & B have different heights is; they are stronger strings and they need to be a bit farther away so they don’t overpower weaker strings. If you have a stronger touch, you might need to raise the strings according to taste.

String height: 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.50 1.75 from G to B @ last fret

Most bridge saddles have 2 screws for each string. Make sure that they have the same height. And you need to re-tune your strings after each height change.

If your bridge supports string spacing adjustment, you can adjust to taste. My Fodera has a string spacing of 19mm, which provides a wide comfort. The key is, distance between the middle points of string should be equal. For example, distance between B – E should equal to the distance between E – A. My Lakland has fixed string spacing, which is also fine.

In case you need instruction, I recommend the string height video of Jason from Fodera Guitars.

If you lower a string as much as the bridge allows you to, but still can’t get as low as mentioned above, then your neck angle might not be properly setup. That wouldn’t be the case with a high end boutique bass; however, you might experince that on production basses. The solution is to remove the neck, apply a thin piece of card / wood between the neck & the body at the spot closest to the bridge, re-attach the bridge and re-run the maintenance procedure. A very thin shim goes a long way. This will change the neck angle and let you lower the strings further than before.

If you do a shim operation, you obviously need to go back and restart the setup with the neck relief. If you are not experienced with that, you might get help from a luthier. In case you need instruction, the commercial video of StewMac can give you a good idea.

Buzz Check

After setting up the neck relief and string height properly, you shouldn’t experience any buzzing. Play around some with your regular touch. If you experience buzz between the 1st-12th frets, the neck might need more relief. If you experience buzz between 12-24, the string height might not be enough.

Please note that another reason for buzz might be unleveled frets. Ideally, each fret should have the exact same height all over the fretboard – that’s usually achieved with a plek machine. If some frets are higher than others, those might buzz despite a perfect setup matching your playing style. The quick but poor solution is to increase the distance between the string & frets by playing with the relief or string height. The good solution is to have your frets leveled by an experienced luthier. In case you are wondering, you can watch Stew Mac leveling frets. That’s not something I’d recommend doing on your own.

Pickup Height

Next step is to setup your pickup height. Again, this is a matter of taste. If you set your pickups close to the strings, they will sound hotter. Set them apart, and you’ll get the opposite effect.

Please note that pickups produce magnetic pull. If the pickups are too close to the strings, the magnetic force of the pickups will affect the oscillation of the string and you’ll start to sound out of tune. Some string materials, such as steel and cobalt, are more susceptible to magnetic pull. Some materials, such as nickel, are less susceptible. Pickup type is also a factor: Ceramic pickups tend to produce stronger magnetic fields than alnico pickups.

In any case; the distance between bass strings & the pickup should be greater than the treble strings & the pickup. You wouldn’t want the stronger strings to overpower the weaker strings. We make up the power difference by making the weak string get closer to the pickup so they get heard better.

Here is the string to pickup height chart for my Fodera where the strings are pressed at the last fret:

Front pickup: B: 2.5mm, G: 1.75mm
Back pickup: B: 2.5mm, G: 1.75mm

Here is the string to pickup height chart for my Lakland where the strings are not pressed:

MM pickup: B: 3.969mm, G: 2.778mm 
J pickup: B: 4.366mm, G: 3.572mm

After setting the pickup height, play around your bass through your amp and ensure that all strings sound even. Due to your technique, you might be hitting some strings harder than others – or they might be other factors affecting the string to string balance of your bass. Minor pickup adjustments might be needed accordingly.

In case you need a demo on pickup height, you can watch Jason from Fodera Guitars adjusting his pickups .


After making sure that your bass is in perfect tune, it is time to check your intonation. We need to ensure that each string produces the desired frequency on the 12th fret. For example; your E string might be in perfect tune, but if the string length is not correct, it will sound off at the 12th fret and won’t be in tune overall.

For each string;

  • Let the string ring and ensure that it is in tune
  • Press the string on the 12th fret and check your tuner
  • If the note is in tune, move to the next string
  • If the note is flat, you should shorten the string via the bridge
  • If the note is sharp, you should lengthen the string via the bridge


In case you need a demo on intonation, you can watch Jason from Fodera Guitars intonate his instrument.


If you have an active bass, changing your battery every 6 months is a good idea. It is also important not to leave the jack on the bass, otherwise the batteries will drain extremely quickly.


I feel like this is one of the most comprehensive articles I wrote about bass setup. When it comes to music, there are no universal rights & wrongs. What sounds good to someone can sound bad to another person, and what works in a certain context might not work so well in another one. Having said that, I hope that my approaches will give some inspiration to the entire community of bass players.

Note that a good setup is only the first step of a good tone. I recommend you to continue with How I EQ my Basses .

Shaft Da Kapanıyor

Yaklaşık 20 sene boyunca çeşitli oluşumlarla sahne aldığım, hayatımın her döneminden pek çok anımın olduğu Shaft Club da; İstanbul’daki pek çok canlı müzik mekanı gibi kapanıyor. “Her şey nasıl başladıysa öyle biter” diyen Yavuz Çetin’i hatırlıyorum bu haber karşısında, tatlı bir hüzünle.

Peki ama bu canlı müzik mekanları neden birer birer kapanıyor? Bunun genel geçer net cevabını söylemek zor olsa da, bazı subjektif gözlemlerimi paylaşmak istiyorum.

90’larda Müzik

90’larda İstanbul’da sayısız canlı müzik mekanı haftanın 7 günü canlı müzik yapardı. Çok iyi Cover grupları vardı. Aklıma gelen bazı gruplar; Blue Blues Band, Indians, Volvox, Funk Doctors, Soul Stuff, Kangroove, Acil Servis, Athena, Gür Akad Band, …

Bu yıllar, aynı zamanda albümlerin satıldığı ve stüdyoya yatırım yapılarak albümlere büyük bütçeler ayrılabildiği yıllardı. 90’larda çok kaliteli parçaların biraz da yorumlanarak canlı çalınması, o dönemin dinleyicisine büyük keyif veriyordu ki bu mekanlar bu kadar doluyordu.

O kitle, artık kariyer çoluk çocuk sahibi olduğu için gece hayatından biraz çekilmiş gibi gözüküyor. Eğlence tercihleri daha sakin, yemekli mekanlarda dostlarla bir araya gelmeye evrildi.

2000’lerde MP3

Peki sonradan gelen nesil? 2000’li yılların başından itibaren Torrent / paylaşım programları türedi ve kaçak MP3 indirip dinlemek çok kolay hale geldi. Bu kolaya da geniş kitleler ne yazık ki meyletti.

Sonuç? Plak şirketleri, albümlere yapılan yatırımı azaltıp konserlere yapılan yatırımı arttırmaya başladı. Ucuza maledilen, dolayısıyla müzikaliteden ister istemez ödün verilmiş albümleri bedava verip; insanları dansçılar, kostümler, egolar ve ışık gösterileriyle göz kamaştıran biletli konserlere çekme yoluna gitmeye başladılar. Zira MP3 evde dinlenebilir, ama konser atmosferi evde yaşanamaz.

Popüler müzik, artık büyük ölçüde elektronik öğeler içeriyor ve bir sahne gösterisinin sadece bir parçası olmuş durumda. Dolayısıyla; şimdiki nesilde canlı müzik dinleme kültürü epey azaldı gibi. Bir diğer deyişle; davul / bas / gitar / klavye / vokal formatındaki geleneksel bir Rock grubunun çalabileceği parçalar, artık yeni neslin ilgisini çekmiyor. Çünkü o parçaları dinleyerek değil, sahne gösterisine fon müziği olan elektronik ağırlıklı müziği dinleyerek büyüdüler.

O parçaları seven kitleden hala canlı müzik dinleyenler ise, mekanları çevirmeye yetmiyor artık.

Amatör Gruplar

Gözlemlediğim bazı mekanlar, popüler 1-2 grubu hafta sonu yüksek bütçeyle sürekli sahneye çıkarıp, hafta içi ise amatör grupları çıkarma yoluna gittiler. Amatör gruplar, “Vay canına, X’in çaldığı yerde çalacağız, büyük fırsat” duygusuyla düşük bütçelere sahne almayı kabul ettiklerinde, onları dinlemeye gelen arkadaş eş dost sayesinde de mekan biraz olsun bir şeyler kazanabiliyordu.

Ancak bunun da etkisi uzun vadede olumsuz oldu kanımca. Eskiden mekana gitme kavramı vardı. İsim yapmış bir mekana haftanın hangi günü gidersek gidelim, mutlaka kaliteli bir grubun iyi bir müzik yapacağını biliyor olurduk. Dolayısıyla; “canlı müzik dinlemeye çıkmak” kaliteli müzik ve eğlenceli bir gece anlamına geliyordu.

Enstrüman ve eğitim materyalleri artık çok erişilebilir olduğundan, gruplar kısa bir sürede basit bir repertuarla sahne alabilir hale gelebiliyor. Geliyor da, grubu tanımayıp mekana gelişigüzel gelen insanların keyif alacağı bir sonuç çıkıyor mu ortaya?

Genele bakıldığında pek çıkmıyor sanki. Sahne alan grupların ortalamasındaki düşüş, müşteriler arasındaki “canlı müzik” algısını da aşağıya çekti kanımca. Bundan ötürü, canlı müzik vaadeden mekanlara gelişigüzel eğlenmeye gitme olgusu epey darbe yedi.

Biletli Mekanlar

Buna alternatif olarak; insanlara gelişigüzel canlı müzik değil, sevdikleri grup ve sanatçıları biletle izleten mekanlar açıldı. Bunlardan bazıları gösteri merkezi statüsünde, bazıları bardan hallice, bazıları ise 20-30 kişilik samimi mekan formatındalar. Ancak ortak noktaları; grup performanslarını aylık / sezonluk program çerçevesinde bilet satışıyla sunmaları.

Bu formattaki büyük mekanlar, genelde takipçi sayısı yüksek albümlü grupları çıkarmayı tercih ediyor – bazen de yabancı grupları getiriyorlar. Daha mütevazi gruplar ise, küçük butik mekanlarda daha küçük bütçelerle (muhtemelen biletten % alarak) sahne alabiliyor ancak. Bu butik sahnelerde ise ciddi ses sistemleri yok, bir kısmında davul bile yok. Dolayısıyla; oralarda da akustik ağırlıklı küçük ekipler, ufak beste oluşumları veya performanslarına doğaçlama / masal / komedi gibi öğeler katarak merak uyandıran orijinal içerik sergileyenler yer bulabiliyor.

Bu mekanlar, şu anda kısmen tutunabiliyor gibi gözükse de; bakalım uzun vadede ne olacak…


Son olarak; eskiden canlı müziğin kalesi olarak görülen Beyoğlu’nda ayan beyan gözlemlenebilen değişimi de dile getirmeden olmaz. Bu değişim, Türkiye’nin çehresindeki bir değişimi özetliyor aslında. Sebepleri konusunda pek çok rivayet olmakla birlikte; net sonuç orada (müzikli müziksiz) sayısız mekanın kapanması oldu. Eskiden Beyoğlu’na eğlenmeye giden kitlenin bir kısmı Karaköy’de, bir kısmı ise Kadıköy’de zaman geçirir oldu.

Bu yazının sonunda, değişimin kaçınılmaz olduğunu dile getirmek istiyorum. Bir Çin atasözü; değişim rüzgarları estiğinde kiminin barınak kiminin yeldeğirmeni kurduğunu söyler. Müzik piyasasındaki bu değişim rüzgarlarının kimi nereye götüreceğini hep birlikte göreceğiz.

Why I Avoid TV

No, I don’t watch TV at all. Never seen a single episode of Lost, Game of Thrones or Prison Break. Don’t watch the news, sports or any show either. Instead, I allocate my time on productive occupations. That’s how I find the time to write books or keep up with the bands I participate.

I would like to openly evaluate my last year to demonstrate how this works for me.

TV Statistics

According to multiple studies, an average adult spends 4 hours per day watching TV. I will cut this in half so that most readers can relate to an average rate of 2 hours per day.

When you sum it up; this makes ~14 hours per week, ~56 hours per month and ~730 hours per year. Assuming that an average work day is 8 hours long, it means that an adult spends ~90 workdays on TV.

This is a lot of time.

People have different preferences. You might be spending much less time on series; but you might be spending time on video games, newspapers, trivial social events, etc instead. Therefore, I would like to generalize the abbreviation “TV” as “Time Vampires“.

My Secret

Spending TV time on productive occupations is my secret.

If you check my Website; you’ll find that I’m a software architect, a writer, an active musician and a yogi simultaneously. People often ask me how I manage to run those occupations in parallel. Well, time management and discipline is an obvious answer. However; before managing time, you need to have some free time in the first place.

Avoiding TV (time vampires) altogether is how I find free time.

This leaves me 90 workdays (about 4 months on the job) to do whatever I want. This is more than enough to write, practice songs and do some yoga.

A Year Without TV

For instance; my SAP Press book on ABAP Design Patters took me one year to finish. And it is around 400 pages. This means that I wrote ~1 page every day for an entire year. Assuming that a page would take me an hour to complete, I can safely say that I published a book instead consuming the time I saved from TV. A profitable exchange, right?

730 annual hours – 400 hours spent on the book left me with 330 hours. Assuming that I practice bass guitar for 30 minutes every day in average, I have spent 180 hours practicing music. This means that; avoiding TV has also enabled me to play gigs.

This still left me 150 hours of free time. Assuming that I do 30 minutes of yoga every other day, it means that I have spent 90 hours on yoga. This still leaves 60 hours of free time. I have probably spent this time on movies, YouTube or video games. But those are not habits. Exceptions don’t define you, but habits do.

The only significant downside of TV avoidance is; I don’t understand some references and jokes among my peers. Well, I can live with that – I’d rather have another published book + my gigs under my belt.


Being aware of time vampires in your life is an important first step of taking control of the way you live. Video games, newspapers, magazines, trivial social events might be TVs that affect you.

Once you start saving free time, you can start doing time management to achieve your goals over time. I have published a Turkish speech on time management which might guide Turkish speaking readers. Others might be interested in researching methods like GTD and Pomodoro.

Gitarda Dip Gürültüsü ve Çözümleri

Eğer gitarınızdan dip gürültüsü geliyorsa, bunun genelde iki sebebi olabilir: Manyetikleriniz veya bulunduğunuz mekanın elektrik sistemi. Bu yazıda, bu problemleri inceleyip olabilecek çözümleri tartışacağız.

Manyetik Kaynaklı Gürültü

Single Coil bir gitar manyetiğinin içerisinde, tek yöne doğru sarılmış bir bobin bulunmaktadır. Bu bobin soldan sağa doğru sarıldıysa +100 polaritede, sağdan sola doğru sarıldıysa -100 polaritede olacaktır.

Manyetiğiniz, radyo antenlerine benzer bir şekilde, havadan yayılan elektromanyetik frekansları algılamaktadır. Eğer odanızda elektromanyetik dalga yayan hiçbir cihaz yoksa ve elektrik tesisatınız da temizse, Single Coil manyetiğinizi hiçbir dip gürültüsü olmadan kullanabilirsiniz.

Ancak; sahneye çıktığınızda işler değişir. Mekanda; buzdolabı, ışık sistemi, ekranlar, vb cihazlar bulunacak ve elektromanyetik dalga yayacaktır. Gitar manyetiğiniz bunlara maruz kaldığında; hiçbir nota vurmasanız bile bir dip gürültüsü yaymaya başlar.

Farklı yönlere dönerek elektromanyetik dalgaların gitarınıza çarpmamasını sağlayabiliyorsanız ve konser boyunca o yönde çalabilecekseniz, sorunu basit bir şekilde çözebilirsiniz. Ancak; bu yöntemin işe yaramayacağı pek çok durum olabilir.

Humbucker manyetikler, bu tarz bir dip gürültüsüne sahip değildir. Bilmeyenler için; Humbucker manyetikler iki Single coil manyetiğin aynı anda çalıştığı bir manyetik türüdür. Humbucker içerisindeki manyetiklerden biri soldan sağa (+100), diğeri ise sağdan sola (-100) sarıldığı için, birbirlerinin polaritesini sıfırlar ve elektromanyetik dalgalardan etkilenmez hale gelirler. Humbucker tonlarını seviyorsanız, Single Coil yerine Humbucker manyetik tercih ederek manyetik kaynaklı dip gürültüsüne sonsuza dek veda edebilirsiniz.

Telecaster veya Jazz Bass gibi iki Single Coil manyetiğe sahip gitarların da manyetikleri genelde ters sarılmıştır (biri soldan sağa, diğeri sağdan sola). İki manyetiği aynı anda etkinleştirerek Humbucker efekti yaratabilir ve dip gürültüsünden kurtulabilirsiniz. Aynısı, Stratocaster gitarların Neck + Mid veya Bridge + Mid şeklindeki ara pozisyonları için de geçerlidir.

Precision Bass‘ta ise Split Coil bir manyetik bulunur. Yani; ikiye bölünmüş tek bir manyetik vardır ve bu parçalar yine birbirinin aksi yönünde sarılmıştır. Humbucker mantığına sahip bu Single Coil manyetik sayesinde, gürültüsü önlenmiş olur. Bu mantığı takip eden ve geliştiren Aguilar, kendi içinde iki zıt sarıma sahip ama Single Coil özelliği taşıyan Jazz Bass manyetikleri üretmektedir. Başka gitarlara yönelik benzer manyetikler üreten başka firmalar da var elbette. Bu tarz manyetikleri tercih ederek; hem Single Coil sound’u alabilir hem de dip gürültüsünü kesebilirsiniz.

MusicMan, HS modellerinde Single Coil manyetiğin yanına bir de Ghost Coil manyetik eklemektedir. Bu manyetik, gövdenin içine gizlidir ve herhangi bir ses üretmez. Tek görevi, Single Coil manyetiğe ters sarımlı bobini ile Humbucking etkisi yaratmak ve dip gürültüsünü kesmektir. Ghost Coil barındıran bir gitar tercih ederek veya gitarınızı modifiye ettirip bir Ghost Coil ekleterek bu çözümü uygulayabilirsiniz.

Lakland 55-02 modellerinde, her bir manyetik Split Coil olarak sarıldığından, hangi manyetik kombinasyonunu seçerseniz seçin dip gürültüsü gelmemektedir.

Ancak; Humbucker, Split Coil veya Ghost Coil çözümlerinin her biri, ton değişikliği anlamına gelmektedir. Vintage Single Coil Sound’undan mümkün mertebe feragat etmek istemiyor ancak yine de dip gürültüsünü kesmek istiyorsanız, o halde yardımcı pedal kullanmayı önerebilirim.

Önerebileceğim ilk pedal, Electro Harmonix’in Hum Debugger pedalı. Bu pedal, manyetiğinizin dip gürültüsünü tespit ederek 60 Hz civarındaki dip gürültüsünü EQ modifikasyonuyla devreden çıkarır ve sisteme temiz bir ses gitmesini sağlar. Forumlarda bu pedalı kullanan bazı kişiler gitarlarının tonunu değiştirdiğini, bazıları değiştirmediğini, bazıları ise ton değişikliğinin (özellikle mix içerisinde) gözardı edilebileceğini söylüyor. Ben bas gitarımda pek bir ton değişikliği hissettiğimi söyleyemem, gayet memnundum.

Bir diğer pedal türü ise, Noise Gate olabilir. Pek çok marka Noise Gate pedalı üretmektedir. Bu pedalların özelliği, belli bir Volume seviyesinin altındaki sinyali sisteme hiç göndermemektir. Bu sayede; gitarı çalmadığınızda, görece düşük bir ses seviyesinde olan dip gürültüsü sisteme gitmeyecektir. Çalmaya başladığınızda dip gürültüsü de sisteme gidecek, ancak kendi notalarınızın Volume’ünün çok altında kaldığından izleyici bunu muhtemelen hissetmeyecek / duymayacaktır. Noise Gate’in dezavantajı ise; dinamik bir çalıma sahipseniz, görece sessiz çalmak istediğiniz notaları da kesme riskidir.

Elektrik Kaynaklı Gürültü

Bu ikinci tarz dip gürültüsü, gitarınızın manyetiği ile doğrudan ilişkili değildir. Daha ziyade, mekandaki elektrik altyapısı ve topraklama ile ilgilidir.

Türkiye’deki prizlerde iki soket bulunur. Bunlardan biri elektrik, diğeri topraktır.

İdeal durumda; elektrik sistemine bağlı tüm cihazların elektrik / toprak polaritesi aynı olmalıdır. Ancak; pozitif ve negatif polariteye sahip cihazları aynı altyapıya bağladığınızda; elektrik ve toprak savaşmaya başlar. Bu savaş, hoparlörlere dip gürültüsü olarak yansıyacaktır.

Bu problemi elimine etmenin yolu, cihazları sırayla fişten çekerek problemi neyin yarattığını anlamaktan geçer. Problemli cihaz vazgeçilebilir bir cihaz ise, konser sırasında fişe takmayarak veya (varsa) alternatif bir tesisata takarak problemi çözebilirsiniz.

Bazı DI Box / amfilerde “Ground Switch” diye bir düğme bulunur. Bu düğme, cihazın polaritesini ters çevirmektedir. Tesisattaki cihazların Ground Switch’ine basarak polaritelerini çevirmeyi deneyebilirsiniz. Pek çok örnekte, dip gürültüsünü bu şekilde hallettim.